directionalpsd#

[Syy2d, f2d, theta] = directionalpsd(Syy, f, Wavedir, calcMethod, Windvel, dtheta, dispout)

Description#

Calculate wave directional spectrum using parametric directional spreading function

such as Mitsuyasu et al. (1975), Hasselmann et al. (1980) and Donelan et al. (1985)

Inputs#

Syy: One dimensional power spectral density (m^2/Hz)
f: Frequency (Hz)
Wavedir=0;: Mean wave direction between 0 and 360 (Degree)
CalcMethod=’mitsuyasu’;: Directional wave spectrum calculation method

‘pierson’: Pierson et al. (1955), ‘cos2’: D=1/pi*(cos((theta-theta_mean)/2))^2

‘mitsuyasu’: Mitsuyasu (1975), ‘hasselmann’: Hasselmann (1980), ‘donelan’: Donelan et al. (1985)

‘flat’: uniform distribution in all directions
Windvel=0;: Wind velocity at 10 meter above surface level in (m/s)

Wind velocity is required for Mitsuyasu (1975) and Hasselmann (1980) methods

For other methods use Windvel=0
dtheta=15;: Direction interval at which directional spectrum calculated between 0 and 360 (Degree)
dispout=’no’;: Define to display outputs or not

‘2d’: 2 dimensional plot, ‘surface’: Surface plot, ‘polar’: Polar plot, ‘no’: not display

Outputs#

Syy2d: Directional wave power spectral density (m^2/Hz/Degree)
f2d: Directional frequency (Hz)
theta: Direction (Degree)

Examples#

N=2^11; %Total number of points
fs=8; %Sampling frequency
df=fs/N; %Frequency difference
f(:,1)=[0:df:fs/2]; %Frequency vector
f(1,1)=f(2,1)/2; %Assign temporarily non-zero value to fisrt element of f to prevent division by zero
Syy=0.016.*9.81.^2./((2.*pi).^4.*(f.^5)).*exp(-1.25.*(0.33./f).^4); %Calculating Spectrum
f(1,1)=0;
Syy(1,1)=0;
[Syy2d,f2d,theta]=directionalpsd(Syy,f,45,'mitsuyasu',10,15,'polar');

References#

Banner, M. L. (1990). Equilibrium spectra of wind waves. Journal of Physical Oceanography, 20(7), 966-984.

Donelan, M. A., Hamilton, J., & Hui, W. (1985). Directional spectra of wind-generated waves. Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society of London A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences, 315(1534), 509-562.

Ewans, K. C. (1998). Observations of the directional spectrum of fetch-limited waves. Journal of Physical Oceanography, 28(3), 495-512.

Goda, Y. (1999). A comparative review on the functional forms of directional wave spectrum. Coastal Engineering Journal, 41(01), 1-20.

Hasselmann, D. E., Dunckel, M., & Ewing, J. A. (1980). Directional wave spectra observed during JONSWAP 1973. Journal of physical oceanography, 10(8), 1264-1280.

Hwang, P. A., & Wang, D. W. (2001). Directional distributions and mean square slopes in the equilibrium and saturation ranges of the wave spectrum. Journal of physical oceanography, 31(5), 1346-1360.

Mitsuyasu, H., Tasai, F., Suhara, T., Mizuno, S., Ohkusu, M., Honda, T., & Rikiishi, K. (1975). Observations of the directional spectrum of ocean WavesUsing a cloverleaf buoy. Journal of Physical Oceanography, 5(4), 750-760.

Pierson, W. J., Neumann, G., & James, R. W. (1955). Practical methods for observing and forecasting ocean waves by means of wave spectra and statistics. Publication 603, U.S. Navy Hydrographic Office, 284 pp.

Sorensen, R. M. (2005). Basic coastal engineering (Vol. 10). Springer Science & Business Media.

directionalpsd

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